Full review

Wild Country Friend Camming Device on the rock

The Wild Country Friend is one of the most iconic pieces of protection in the history of rock climbing, credited as the original spring-loaded camming device that revolutionized how climbers place gear in cracks. Designed with four cams arranged on two axles, the Friend expands and contracts to grip irregular rock surfaces, allowing climbers to protect cracks that were previously impossible or dangerous to safeguard with traditional nuts or hexes alone. Its rugged construction and dependable mechanical camming action made it an instant favorite among trad climbers seeking reliable, fast placements in varying crack sizes, from thin seams to wider fissures.

Built with durable aluminum alloy lobes and a sturdy stem, the Wild Country Friend is engineered to withstand repeated falls and harsh outdoor conditions, making it a trusted companion on granite faces, sandstone cracks, and alpine routes alike. The trigger mechanism is smooth and responsive, enabling climbers to retract the cams with one hand even while gripping the rock with the other, a crucial feature when seconds count on a strenuous lead. Color-coded lobes correspond to specific size ranges, helping climbers quickly identify the right cam for the crack in front of them without fumbling through their rack mid-climb.

Beyond its functional design, the Friend carries a legacy that shaped modern trad climbing culture, having been the first widely adopted cam to give climbers the confidence to attempt bolder, more committing lines. Today’s version retains that pioneering spirit while incorporating modern refinements in materials and manufacturing precision, ensuring consistent performance pitch after pitch. Whether used for splitter cracks in Yosemite, gritstone lines in the Peak District, or remote alpine ascents, the Wild Country Friend remains a dependable, time-tested piece of gear that continues to earn its place on climbing racks around the world.

Where it sits in the Protection field

Against the other 11 protection pieces on the bench, this one lands at #67 overall with a bench score of 81. Its strongest axis is on-rock performance; its weakest is weight saving, which is where the closest alternatives listed alongside make up ground.