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Black Diamond Momentum DS Harness

Full specification

8 rows
Weight370 g (size M)
Gear Loops4
Waist SizesAvailable XS-XL
MaterialNylon webbing with EVA foam padding
CertificationUIAA/CE certified
Weight (parsed)370 g
Bench score85 / 100
Overall rank#22 of 100 reviewed
Verdict

The Black Diamond Momentum DS Harness is a reliable, comfortable, and versatile option for climbers who split time between gym, crag, and multi-pitch routes. Its adjustable leg loops and plush waistbelt make it a strong choice for beginners and intermediate climbers seeking durability and all-day comfort without breaking the bank.

Full review

Black Diamond Momentum DS Harness on the rock

The Black Diamond Momentum DS Harness is a versatile, all-around climbing harness built for climbers who move between the gym and outdoor rock with equal frequency. The "DS" stands for dual-speed, referring to the harness's updated buckle system that adds a second adjustment point on the waistbelt, allowing for a more dialed, secure fit across a wider range of body shapes and clothing layers. This makes it a smart pick for climbers who layer up in cooler weather or who simply want a harness that adapts well throughout a long day of pitches without needing constant fussing.

Constructed with Black Diamond's signature Fusion Comfort Waistbelt and leg loops, the Momentum DS uses a breathable, lightly padded webbing that flexes naturally with the body while still offering solid support during hangs, falls, or extended belays. The four pressure-molded, hollow-core gear loops are strategically placed for easy access to quickdraws, slings, and other essentials, while the rear haul loop and adjustable, elastic leg loops add practical touches for trad climbing, sport routes, and gym sessions alike. The two forward-oriented, plastic-reinforced tie-in points streamline the roping-in process, reducing bulk and rope drag right at the harness's core.

Durable yet approachable, the Momentum DS Harness strikes a balance between comfort-focused padding and the low-profile feel climbers want when pushing into more technical terrain. Its speed-adjust buckles are easy to manage even when wearing gloves, making it a strong choice for alpine days as well as casual weekend cragging. Available in a range of sizes and colorways, this harness has earned its reputation as one of Black Diamond's most reliable, do-it-all options, appealing to beginners building their first climbing kit and seasoned climbers looking for a dependable, no-nonsense harness they can trust pitch after pitch.

Where it sits in the Harnesses field

Against the other 10 harnesses pieces on the bench, this one lands at #22 overall with a bench score of 85. Its strongest axis is build quality; its weakest is weight saving, which is where the closest alternatives listed alongside make up ground.

The detail

Strengths, trade-offs and features

5 strengths against 3 trade-offs recorded during testing, plus the 6 features that define this piece.

What works

Extremely comfortable padding for long belays and multi-pitch days
Adjustable leg loops accommodate layering in cold weather
Lightweight yet durable construction
Affordable price point for a versatile all-around harness
Easy to size and adjust even with gloves on

What to weigh up

Slightly bulkier than ultralight sport-specific harnesses
Gear loops are fixed and not swappable
Not ideal for competitive sport climbers wanting minimalist design

Key features

01Dual-back adjustable leg loops for a customizable fit
02Fusion Comfort Harness Construction with pre-curved waistbelt
03Four pressure-molded gear loops for rack organization
04Trakfit adjustment webbing for easy on/off with shoes or approach gear
05Haul loop for trad and multi-pitch climbing
06Bombshell hardware belay loop rated for high durability
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